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It's a Trap! My 1967 Volvo 122S

Project cars, modifications or other general showoff

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julkinen

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Re: It's a Trap! My 1967 Volvo 122S

PostTue Mar 13, 2012 11:50 pm

It's a trap!

Well, rust is bound to be found somewhere and it's good to have full disclosure of it so it can be treated. And that doesn't look terminal at all.
1991 Mazda 323F BG, 1990 Mitsubishi Sapporo E16A
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LeftofLucky

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Re: It's a Trap! My 1967 Volvo 122S

PostWed Mar 14, 2012 4:32 am

You know my philosophy. If it isn't rusty, don't trust it.

Seriously, though, now might be the time to hone your welding skills. If you keep an eye on CL, nine times out of ten you can find a good MIG for under $300. I picked up mine for $200 with a cart, never used. Pick up some spare sheets and get the feel for it before filling those pins and soaking everything in POR-15.

Plenty of people do the fiberglass thing, and I suppose that's an option, but it's always struck me as not quite a solid fix, you know?

Just as a morale booster, I have to say that given the vehicle's domicile for the past millennium and the purchase price, you've come out like the gangbuster you are.
"Then you're trapped in your lovely nest, and the things you used to own, now they own you." ~Chuck Palahniuk
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Alcology

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Re: It's a Trap! My 1967 Volvo 122S

PostWed Mar 21, 2012 9:01 am

Are you going to put any sound deadening on the floor? There are spray on options like lizard skin, DEI Boom Mat or dynashield. Easy to do and pretty cheap
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Han_Solex

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Re: It's a Trap! My 1967 Volvo 122S

PostWed Mar 21, 2012 12:20 pm

Alcology wrote:Are you going to put any sound deadening on the floor? There are spray on options like lizard skin, DEI Boom Mat or dynashield. Easy to do and pretty cheap


Yeah, I think so. The jute stuff was soaked and I blame that 100% for letting the floorpans rot. After I POR15 the whole thing I was thinking about doing a combination of a dampener (like a DynaMat type thing, probably just the cheapest one I can find) and a closed-cell foam on top. That should be fine.

Any suggestions are welcome.
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Alcology

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Re: It's a Trap! My 1967 Volvo 122S

PostFri Mar 23, 2012 12:34 pm

Dynamat is basically foam, so you'd reall only need that. It is kinda expensive though, so you could use spray-on with closed cell foam. No idea how that would end up though
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Han_Solex

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Re: It's a Trap! My 1967 Volvo 122S

PostSat Apr 07, 2012 8:25 am

Image Image

Nothing really interesting has happened lately (mostly still prepping the pans, slowly ... been busy!), but I wanted to post a pic - I got a new grille shell and straight front bumper! The bumper's not pictured, clearly. The grille shell is definitely not perfect, but it's better than my decimated original one! I think I'll prime and rattlecan it as close as I can to the color, and call it good enough. Down the road my car could probably use some bodywork and new paint anyways, so I'm just looking to make it a 20-footer. Still, it looks way more like a car with a straight nose!
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Thrashy

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Re: It's a Trap! My 1967 Volvo 122S

PostTue Apr 10, 2012 8:59 am

I don't know how close to white the paint actually is (so it may be tricky to match the color), but have you considered the foam-roller method? It worked pretty well for me, and I didn't even bother to buff it smooth. It's a little bit more of a time investment than a rattle-can job, but it comes out much nicer.
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Han_Solex

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Re: It's a Trap! My 1967 Volvo 122S

PostTue Apr 10, 2012 10:25 am

I haven't heard of that method before! Do you have a link to a how-to?

Also, the cool thing is I found a company that sells the OEM Volvo color mixed into an aerosol can. It's a bit expensive ($20/can) but there are some tiny rust bubbles on the trunk and rear fender ... I figured sanding a small area around those, POR15, prime, and then hit with a few coats of the spray paint (with wet sanding inbetween) and I'll get it looking halfway decent. I can't afford a respray and I am looking for a 10' job. I also don't have a paint gun. But I think this spray method might be ok.

That is, unless the foam roller is easier. Certainly sounds less messy than a spray situation. And I can definitely get small cans of color correct paint in non spray form. Shoot me a link if you can. Thanks!
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Thrashy

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Re: It's a Trap! My 1967 Volvo 122S

PostTue Apr 10, 2012 3:38 pm

Here's the original walkthrough for the roller method. It's not hard, but it's anything but quick -- you'd be laying down 6-8 coats of paint, and you can only do two a day. :shock: For such a small piece, you're only talking about five minutes of paint work before breakfast and after dinner, though, so the total work invested is minimal. I'd probably mask off and rattle-can the backside and anything covered by the grilles, and then roll just the exterior.

If you can match OEM paint out of a spray-can, though, that might be the way to go. Rust-Oleum doesn't offer paint-code matching, and I'm not sure if it works with non-enamel paint. :)
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Han_Solex

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Re: It's a Trap! My 1967 Volvo 122S

PostMon Apr 16, 2012 7:55 pm

Image

Oh gee, look at that. I've just reduced the value of my car by 65%!
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Han_Solex

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Re: It's a Trap! My 1967 Volvo 122S

PostSun May 20, 2012 10:28 pm

I haven't touched the Volvo in a couple weeks, as life has interceded. But I got a lot done today. Here's the list:

Image

1. refurbished the original fusebox (cleaned, wirebrushed contacts)
2. had a friend weld up the loose socked on one of the taillights, then refurbished both (wirebrushed contact surfaces, soldered across socket-to-housing gap)
3. drilled out and retapped the last of the busted headlight bucket retainer bolts
4. tested resistance and cleaned contacts on headlight and hi/lo switches

Pretty close to the stage where I plug everything back in and see what works. Close, as in things left to do ... who knows how long it will take? But that's ok. Progress!
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Han_Solex

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Re: It's a Trap! My 1967 Volvo 122S

PostWed May 23, 2012 9:20 pm

Volvo updates: Havlik's Radiator in Kirkland near my office boiled out and pressure checked the Volvo's radiator. $93 total, but it was really convenient (as opposed to getting all the way down to south Seattle on a weekday to go to the "best" place in the area). Was fairly clogged (30% down on capacity) but now it's perfect and back in the car. Hoses and thermostat ordered from IPD for shockingly cheap ($7 for the hoses and $11 for the thermostat). Also figured some stuff out on the wiring - the ignition switch is aftermarket. They cut the "armored cable" partway down. No big deal, but I eliminated a wire coming off the "ACC" position that wasn't doing anything. I also decided not to hook the heater control lighting back up - the wire terminates in some strange bespoke light socket that I don't care to track down. Made new wires for the brake switch and the wire from the starter relay to the ignition switch. The mutli-wire step-down butt connectors should arrive on Friday at Fastenal so I can move forward on the chassis connectors this weekend. The headlight relay is definitely missing. I will want to put one in and wire it according to the diagram. I think that's all I managed tonight.
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